My 5 Must Go Places in Prague

Prague is undoubtedly an architectural gem and it only takes a look to the city's skyline to feast your eyes in an endless number of dark towers, domed churches and clustered spires. In fact, Prague is dubbed the "city of a thousand spires" for an obvious reason, and the rich and well preserved architectonical examples of Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance, and Art Nouveau buildings scattered throughout the city make of it a true open door museum.

That said, getting to this short list of 5 places to visit in Prague was no easy task and only the decision of writing a more complete city guide in the future give me some peace of mind. If you only have a weekend, walk around and catch awesome city views from both sides of the Vltava and try not to miss the next 5 spots.

1. ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK AND OLD TOWN SQUARE

The Old Town (Staré Mesto) is the historic center of Prague, and there you'll find the impressive Old Town Square (Staromestské námestí). As it was close to our hotel, it became sort of ground zero for our daily itineraries. There, you'll find the Church of Our Lady before Týn (in the photo bellow), along with numerous other gorgeous old churches, and superb architecture from different eras.

One of the major attractions in the square is the Old Town Hall (Staromestská radnice), where you can find the spectacular early 15th-century Astronomical Clock (Orloj). If you want to enjoy it calmly its better to pass by in the early hours, as its usual to be surrounded by an expectant crowd, specially when we're close to the hour, to see the 12 Apostles and other figures appear in procession across the clock face. 

2. CHARLES BRIDGE

You can't go to Prague without crossing (several times!) the iconic Charles Bridge (Karluv Most). Built in 1357, the bridge is particularly famous for 32 statues aligned along its over 600 meters of span, being the one of the revered Saint John of Nepomuk the most recognizable. 

To have a more clear view of the bridge and all of these fine statues. its better to be there early in the morning, as it gets quite crowded (subway rush hour crowded, if you get what I mean!). The views from the bridge, over the Vltava river are not to miss and if you have the opportunity, get to the top of the Gothic gates that oversee the bridge from both ends.

3. PRAGUE CASTLE

Located in Hradcany neighborhood, the complex of Prague Castle (Pražský hrad), is one of the city's most visited tourist attractions. Once a walled fortress, the castle has evolved over the centuries and boasts examples of the most leading architectural styles of the last millennium. Within the castle walls you can find St. Vitus Cathedral, St. George's Basilica, the Powder Tower, the Old Royal Palace, and the Golden Lane.

You need no less than half a day to visit all well deserving attractions and must consider that in some cases there will be lines for the entrance. The castle stands on the top of a hill and the views of the city and the river are breathtaking. If you don't have enough time to visit all the monuments, I would urge you not to miss St. Vitus Cathedral.

4. WENCESLAS SQUARE

At the centre of Prague's New Town (Nové Mesto) is the imposing Wenceslas Square (Václavské námestí). Standing in the higher grounds of the enormous rectangular square is the National Museum (unfortunately, didn't have the time to visit it) and along the large avenue you can find numerous other architectural treasures. 

Shoppings, restaurants and hotels can be found in both sides of the street and if you appreciate modernist architecture you will find many examples of the early 20th century buildings there. The square was named after the patron saint of Bohemia, whose statue can be seen in the higher end of the square. If you want to see a different version of the equestrian statue of king Wenceslas, just head to the Lucerna Palace to check the sculpture of the patron riding an upside down horse (photo bellow).

5. MUNICIPAL HOUSE

The Prague Municipal House (Obecní dum) is perhaps one of the finest examples of Art Nouveau in the city. Built in 1912, this splendid building houses one of Prague's most important concert venues, the Smetana Hall, and boasts numerous striking architectural features. Its also an historical landmark as it was from its balcony that the independence of Czechoslovakia was officially proclaimed on October 1918.

The interiors are even more impressive, including many fine stained glass windows, important paintings (one of the rooms decorated by Alfons Mucha). You can visit the interior in a guided tour or opt for a concert, or a meal in one of its restaurants.

The Wanderer's Gallery | Prague

Soul Garden 2019 (Lisbon)

Soul Garden, from Hotel Corinthia Lisbon, reopened for the 2019 summer season, with new menu and curatorship of Dj Señor Pelota. For those looking to enjoy the mild Lisbon nights, in a combination of gastronomic experience with nightlife, this may well be the ideal place.

The Soul Garden, which I told you about last year (see here), is a restaurant and bar set on a terrace (that looks like a secret garden!) with direct access to the exterior, independent of the hotel. This year, it features a comprehensive musical concept, with 14 resident DJs, all with careers already well-known in the music world, which, every day from 19:00 to 00:00, feature playlists with different sound references.

O Soul Garden, do Hotel Corinthia Lisbon reabriu para a temporada de Verão 2019, com novo menu e  curadoria músical do Dj Señor Pelota. Para quem procura aproveitar as amenas noites lisboetas, numa combinação de experiência gastronómica com vida noturna, este pode muito bem ser o lugar ideal.

O Soul Garden, de que já vos falei o ano passado (ver aqui), é um restaurante / bar, num terraço com ar de jardim secreto, com acesso direto ao exterior independente do hotel.  Este ano, apresenta  um conceito musical abrangente, com 14 Djs residentes, carreiras já bem conhecidas no mundo da música, que,  todos os dias das 19:00 às 00:00, apresentam playlists com diferentes referências sonoras.   

The gastronomic offer, an important element of this project, is the responsibility of Chef Miguel Teixeira who prepared an organic and fresh menu with flavors inspired by the four corners of the world and divided into four proposals: sharing dishes, salads, tempuras, and Orient-inspired flavors.

Among the proposals to share are the crunchy cornucopy of crab and the ceviche de dourada with aji amarillo (a delight!). Salads are lighter but equally delicious options, such as shrimp and mango salad and quinoa salad with pine nuts and pomegranate (the layers of flavor have left me amazed). The tempura options are varied and range from vegetables to seafood. From the East, we highlight the braised salmon with Japanese mustard sauce, the scallops with Yuzu vinaigrette and the tuna tataki (very good!). Finally, the desserts include Yuzu brúlêe with pineapple ice cream from the Azores or with the surprise tangerines, already known from the Erva restaurant.

A vertente gastronómica, elemento importante deste projecto, está a cargo do Chef Miguel Teixeira que preparou um menu orgânico e fresco, com sabores inspirados nos quatro cantos do mundo  e que se divide em quatro propostas: pratos para partilhar, saladas, tempuras e sabores de inspiração oriental. 

Das propostas para partilhar destacam-se o  corneto crocante de sapateira e o ceviche de dourada com aji amarillo (uma delícia!). As saladas são opções mais leves mas igualmente deliciosas, como a salada de camarão e manga e a salada de quinoa com pinhões e romã (as camadas de sabor deixaram-me maravilhada). As opções de tempura são variadas e vão desde os legumes aos mariscos.  Do Oriente destacamos o salmão braseado com molho de mostarda Japonesa, as vieiras com vinagrete de Yuzu e o tataki de atum (muito bom!).  Para terminar, as sobremesas incluem  brúlêe de Yuzu com gelado de ananás dos Açores ou com as tangerinas surpresa, já nossas conhecidas do restaurante Erva.

The bar is run by Honório Oliveira, who manages the hotel's bars, and that at Soul Garden offers an interpretation of post-war Tiki bars, using fresh ingredients and exotic decorations. This concept offers the client a sensory adventure starting with the menu itself which is a treasure hunt map. The cocktails are inspired by three paradisiacal destinations: the Mediterranean, Caribbean and Southeast Asia where I highlight the Mahi Mahi Mermaid (the most delicious pink cocktail ever!) and the Coconut Craze. In fact, I still can not decide which one I like the most!

O bar está ao comando de Honório Oliveira, responsável pelos bares do hotel, que no Soul Garden oferece uma interpretação dos bares Tiki do período pós-guerra, usando ingredientes frescos e decorações exóticas. Este conceito oferece ao cliente uma aventura sensorial começando pelo próprio menu que é um mapa de caça ao tesouro. Os cocktails são inspirados em três destinos paradisíacos: Mediterrâneo, Caraíbas e Sudeste Asiático de onde destaco o Mahi Mahi Mermaid (um delicioso cocktail rosa!) e o Coconut Craze. Na verdade ainda não consegui decidir qual dos dois gosto mais!

But the good news is that this year the Soul Garden will have a Happy Hour, which will take place every day from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m., wherein the purchase of a cocktail, a second drink is offered. I just have to choose one of the lounge islands of Soul Garden, let me transport to my favorite destination and decide which cocktail I prefer. Although is a tough job, by the end of the summer, I'll be ready to disclose my decision!

Mas a boa notícia é que este ano o Soul Garden vai ter uma Happy Hour,  que terá lugar todos os dias das 18:00 às 19:00,  onde na compra de uma bebida a segunda é oferta. Só tenho de escolher uma das ilhas lounge do Soul Garden, deixar-me transportar para o meu destino favorito e decidir qual o cocktail que prefiro. Vai ser um trabalho difícil, mas penso que lá para o fim do Verão já serei capaz de tomar uma decisão!  

SOUL GARDEN
Open daily, from 10:00 à 01:00
Corinthia Hotel Lisbon
Av. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro, nº 105
Lisbon 1099-031
Portugal
Phone: +351 217 236 305
Email: lisbon@corinthia.com

Wine Chronicles | Invisível da Adega Ervideira

As it has already become a tradition, on April 1st, Ervideira winery presented its new production of Invisível to the market. This year, moreover, a special date was celebrated, as it was the 10th edition of Portugal's first blanc de noir, which the company made available to the market.

The history of blancs de noir goes back several centuries and originates in the attempt of the cold regions to make red wines with a greater concentration of color. Thus, the producers of Pinot Noir and Merlot, varieties that traditionally give rise to wines with little chromatic intensity, separated the first juice that was not in contact with the film, in order to produce two wines. The first result of the bleeding of the grapes, the blanc de noir, was a wine of gray color to a slight rosé, on which the producers had no special attention. Already the second, the producers made of this their better wines, for having greater concentration and structure.

Como já é costume, no passado dia 1 de Abril a Ervideira apresentou a sua nova produção de Invisível ao mercado. Este ano, além do mais, celebrou-se uma data especial, pois tratou-se da 10ª edição do primeiro blanc de noir de Portugal, que a empresa fez chegar ao mercado.

A História dos blancs de noir remonta a vários séculos atrás e tem origem na tentativa das regiões frias fazerem vinhos tintos com maior concentração de cor. Assim, os produtores de Pinot Noir e Merlot, castas que tradicionalmente dão origem a vinhos com pouca intensidade cromática, separavam o primeiro sumo que não esteve em contacto com a pelicula, de forma a produzir dois vinhos. O primeiro resultado da sangria das uvas, o Blanc de Noir, era um vinho de uma cor cinza a ligeiro rosé, e sobre o qual os produtores não tinham especial atenção. Já o segundo, os produtores faziam deste os seus melhores vinhos, por ter maior concentração e estrutura. 

From the aspirations of Duarte Leal da Costa, Executive Director of Ervideira, to create a blanc of noir of high-quality and to the liking of the Portuguese consumer, resulted in Invisível, a truly exceptional wine that conveys all the passion and care placed in the process of its creation and production.

The production of this wine is the responsibility of Ervideira's winemaker, Nelson Rolo, who quickly embraced this challenge, eventually choosing the Aragonez variety thanks to its colorless and aromatic pulp. In this technique, harvesting is done exclusively at night, which allows a lower temperature for neither oxidation nor fermentation. Then, immediately after harvesting, the first juice - known as the tear is taken - is intended to inhibit oxidation and fermentation, and the must is immediately separated from the skins so as not to obtain any color.

This must is transported by refrigerated truck to the winery, where it is driven by gravity to the cold room, remaining decanting for 24 hours at very low temperatures. After this process, the must is inoculated with selected yeasts, followed by fermentation at a controlled temperature of 12ºC for 30 to 45 days. The stage is made in stainless steel vats for approximately 6 months.

Da vontade de Duarte Leal da Costa, Diretor Executivo da Ervideira, criar um blanc de noir de elevada qualidade e do agrado do consumidor português, surgiu aquele que é hoje o Invisível que, pela paixão e cuidado colocado no processo da sua criação e produção, garante, a cada ano, um vinho verdadeiramente excepcional.

A produção deste vinho está a cargo do Enólogo, Nelson Rolo, que rapidamente abraçou este desafio acabando por escolher a casta Aragonez graças à sua polpa incolor e aromática. Nesta técnica, a colheita é feita exclusivamente à noite, o que permite uma temperatura mais baixa para não haver nem oxidação nem fermentação. Depois, imediatamente após a vindima, é tirado o primeiro sumo – conhecido por lágrima – pretende-se assim inibir a oxidação e fermentação, sendo que o mosto é imediatamente separado das peliculas de forma a não obter qualquer cor.

Este mosto é transportado em camião frigorífico até à Adega, onde é conduzido por gravidade à câmara de frio, permanecendo a decantar durante 24horas a muito baixas temperaturas. Após este processo, o mosto é inoculado com leveduras selecionadas, decorrendo a fermentação à temperatura controlada de 12ºC, durante 30 a 45 dias. O estágio é feito em cubas de inox durante aproximadamente 6 meses.

According to Nelson Rolo, "it is important to explain that only 10 to 15% of its juice (the so-called tear) is capable of producing this wine of a unique character, with notes of tea, nuts and pear, a wine in everything different of any other white wine. "

One of its qualities is the versatility and the way it perfectly pairs with several dishes without losing character. In fact, we can even say that depending on the temperature at which it is served, it assumes different personalities, harmonizing perfectly with fish and shellfish, while ice-cold, while it is the perfect companion of meat of intense flavor when served at the temperature of a red.

If you are looking for a wine that can be served from the starters until the dessert, this wine may well be the Invisível. In the presentation event that I had the opportunity to participate, it was the only wine served throughout the meal, matching all the dishes of the excellent cuisine of Solar dos Presuntos in an exemplary way.

Segundo Nelson Rolo, “importa explicar que de cada quilo de uvas apenas 10 a 15% do seu sumo de lágrima é capaz de produzir este vinho, de caracter único, com notas de chá, frutos secos e de pera, um vinho em tudo diferente de qualquer outro vinho branco.”

Uma das suas qualidades é a versatilidade e a forma como casa perfeitamente com diversos pratos sem perder carácter. Na verdade, podemos mesmo dizer que, consoante a temperatura a que é servido, assume diferentes personalidades, harmonizando na perfeição com peixes e mariscos, enquanto gelado, até ser o acompanhante perfeito de carnes de sabor intenso quando servido à temperatura de um tinto. 

Se procuram um vinho que possam servir desses as entradas à sobremesa, esse vinho pode muito bem ser o invisível. No evento de apresentação a que tive a oportunidade de assistir, foi o único vinho servido ao longo da refeição, assistindo todos os pratos da excelente cozinha do Solar dos Presuntos de forma exemplar.

Ervideira is one of the secular wine companies in Portugal, producing wine since 1880. It currently has a total of 160 hectares of vineyards, distributed in the Vidigueira (120 ha) and Reguengos (40 ha) sub-regions. Among its wines are brands such as Conde D'Ervideira, Invisível, Vinha D'Ervideira, Terras D'Ervideira, and Lusitano. In the Wine Lounge of Ervideira it is possible to know their wines in organized events. We have already been there and recommend it! To know more about Adega Ervideira wine tourism it is worth to see the article that we published during our visit.

A Ervideira é uma das empresas vitivinícolas seculares em Portugal, produzindo vinho desde 1880. Atualmente possui um total de 160 hectares de vinha, distribuídos pelas sub-regiões da Vidigueira (120 ha) e Reguengos (40 ha). Entre os seus vinhos, estão marcas como Conde D’Ervideira, Invisível, Vinha D’Ervideira, Terras D’Ervideira e Lusitano. No Wine Lounge da Ervideira é possível conhecer os seus vinhos em Provas organizadas. Já lá estivemos e recomendamos! Para saberem mais acerca do enoturismo da Adega Ervideira vale a pena ver o artigo que publicámos aquando da nossa visita.

Curious about Invisível? You can find it at the Ervideira On-line Store.