The Wanderer's Gallery | Modernist Barcelona

Almada Negreiros Lisbon Itinerary | Igreja de Fátima

The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fatima (usually known as Igreja de Fátima) is located in Avenidas Novas district in Lisbon, the modernist neighborhood of the city developed in the first half of the 20th century. This is also one of my favorite churches in the city (along with Lisbon Cathedral) and one that is particularly dear to me.

The church was commissioned in 1933 to the architect Porfírio Pardal Monteiro and is a remarkable work of Portuguese modernism, with the particularity of being the first Catholic temple to be built in Lisbon after the implantation of the Republic (1910).

The building's exterior, where straight lines and pure forms prevail is composed by a large volume, forming the main nave, covered with a flat roof terrace, which articulates with the lower volumes of the two side aisles, and also with the baptistery and the unique and asymmetrical tower on the façade. The traces of art deco are patented in the asymmetry and fragmentation of volumes and in the way they are ornamented.

Like many other works of Pardal Monteiro, the building had the artistic collaboration of Almada Negreiros (stained glass) and of other Portuguese sculptors and artists. The works of Almada Negreiros in the Baptistery are particularly impressive, and the stained glass behind the alter is absolutely breathtaking. Although this church is a little off the beaten path, its beauty and artistic value totally recommend its visit.

Almada Negreiros's works in this church include the stained glass of the "Holy Trinity" in the Choir,  the stained glass, mosaics and doors of the Baptistery, the stained glass "Calvary" and "Our Lady of Mercy" in the Chapel of Our Lady of Mercy, the stained glass "Our Lady of Carmo" and "Queen of Christians" in the Chapel of Our Lady of Carmo, and the stained glass and Eucharistic symbols of the canopy of the Apse. In the Apse, the four frescoes of the "Evangelists", were also painted by Almada Negreiros.



Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário de Fátima
Av. de Berna 26,
1050-053 Lisboa

Almada Negreiros Lisbon Itinerary | Rocha's Cruise Terminal

In the first half of the 20th century the large passengers ships were still the preferred way to travel between the continents and even between some European countries. Lisbon needed bigger and more modern ship terminals and the decision is taken to built three large maritime terminals in the right margin of river Tagus. The first at Alcântara, the second at Rocha do Conde de Óbidos and a firth one, whose construction was cancelled, at Cais do Sodré.

The two ship terminals, designed by the Portuguese architect Porfirio Pardal Monteiro constitute good examples of modernist architecture and enclosed inside some of what have already been called Alameda Negreiro's master pieces. Both terminals have in their visitors rooms the most magnificent sets of murals, depicting scenes of Portuguese history, tradition and everyday life, created by de imagination and hand of Almada Negreiros.

On a previous post I have presented you the works of Almada Negreiros at Alcântara Cruise Terminal. Continuing the relationship with the architect Pardal Monteiro, Almada Negreiros begins in 1946 the two great frescoed painted triptychs of the  Rocha de Conde Óbidos Cruise Terminal, which will only be concluded in 1948.

The Tagus river is a constant presence on both triptychs. On the first mural, the master unfolds the life  of Lisbon's inhabitants occupied with their activities on the riverside. There is some lyricism on this calm, quiet life scenes filled up with little stories, cleverly unified by the river.

In the second triptych, the three panels recompose a panoramic view of a boat. Although formally the boat is assumed to be the dominant subject, the motive it addresses is that of emigration. The theme of the departure of some, from the same quay where the panels are located, and of the "saudade" of the others, that stay is a recurrent subject that has strongly marked Portuguese history.

Unlike the paintings of Gare Marítima de Alcântara, the different figures are here cut out by a strong black line, which gives the composition a feature that reminds us of Cubism, with design assuming a great protagonism.

On my visit to Rocha's Cruise Terminal I was guest to Fundação Caloust Gulbenkian and had the privilege to be guided by the curator of Almada Negreiros exhibition - A Way of Being Modern. You can also visited the works of Almada Negreiros, making an appointment beforehand (at least 2 working days). The visits are held from Monday to Friday, starting at 10:30 a.m. or 2:30 p.m., free of charges. The visits are preferably scheduled for groups (minimum 10 people) and individual requests can be joined to other groups already scheduled. For more information you must contact:

Divisão de Desenvolvimento e Relações Institucionais do Porto de Lisboa
Phone: +351 21 361 10 25
Mloureiro@portodelisboa.pt

Chronicles from Barcelona | Parc Güell

The dawn of the 20th century found a modern and cosmopolitan Barcelona, vibrant with its growing population and strong economy. A prosperous bourgeois class looked for the best and most selective places to live. Is in such conjuncture that the entrepreneur Eusebi Güell commissions the architect Antoni Gaudí to draw up the plans for a housing estate to be built in a large property situated in a outstanding location.

The healthier air and climate of Muntanya Pelada and the splendid views over the city and the sea had no match. The project had everything to be a success! Nevertheless, that didn't happen and of the 40 houses that were projected only 2 were actually built.

Today, Parc Güell is a public park and a touristic hotspot of Barcelona. But don't get me wrong. Although is always crowded is quite an amazing place to visit and one of the sites where the imagination and geniality of Gaudí can be fully appreciated.

The colored and bright Trecandis mosaic are absolutely amazing and the organic shapes chosen for the construction of the arcades, benches and gatehouses give an almost surrealistic ambience to the site.

Apart from the architectonic features, the park of 15 hectares has beautiful gardens and vegetation that the visitors can enjoy, walking around the carefully designed pathways or resting in the many benches scattered trough the park.

Is important to schedule your visit some days ahead and to book the tickets online. If you are also visiting Sagrada Família (and you must!) you can buy a combined ticket at a much convenient price. At the park you can also visit the house of Gaudí that has a museum dedicated to the famous architect. The museum has a specific entrance fee, not included in the park admittance fee.

Parc Güell
Carrer d'Olot, s/n, 08024
Barcelona
Phone: 934 091 831


Opening Hours and Ticket Prices:

From 27th March to 1st May, daily from 8am to 8.30pm.
From 2nd May to 28th August, daily from 8am to 9.30pm.
From 29th August to 29th October, daily from 8am to 8.30pm.
From 30th October to 26th March, daily from 8.30am 6.15pm.

Adults 7€ | Children (7 - 12 years) 4,9 € | Children under 7 is free

The best way to get to Parc Güell is by bus and, depending on where you are you can choose the lines  24, 92 or 116.