Escher Lisboa (Exhibition)

You've probably heard about Escher and are familiar with many of its works (it have been used in book and record covers, just to mention how widespread its work has been). In my case, I'm passionate for his work for many years, so I could not miss the opportunity to  visit the exhibition on the work of this genius of surrealism that is currently in Lisbon.

At Escher Lisboa, you can enjoy a group of selected works, including many of its masterpieces, that allow you to know the trajectory of this fenomenal artist. Mauritz Cornelis Escher (1898 - 1972), was born in The Netherlands in the final years of the 19th century, and its multifaceted work left enduring marks in the western culture for decades, looking today as alluring as did when it was created.

Provavelmente já ouviu falar sobre Escher e está familiarizado com muitos de seus trabalhos que têm vindo a inspirar designers, sendo até usados em capas de livros e de discos, só para mencionar o quão difundido tem sido seu trabalho. No meu caso, sou apaixonada pelo seu trabalho há muitos anos, por isso não podia perder a oportunidade de visitar a exposição sobre a obra desse gênio do surrealismo que está atualmente em Lisboa.

Na exposição Escher, pode desfrutar de um conjunto de obras selecionadas, incluindo muitas das suas obras-primas, que lhe permitirão conhecer a trajetória deste artista fenomenal. Mauritz Cornelis Escher (1898 - 1972), nasceu na Holanda no final do século XIX, e o seu trabalho multifacetado deixou marcas duradouras na cultura ocidental por décadas, parecendo hoje tão atraente quanto quando foi criado.

The exhibition, is housed in the Museu de Arte Popular, in Belém, and in addition to the 200 works in display, includes scientific experiments, play areas, educational resources and interactive experiences that help the visitors to understand the impossible perspectives and irreconcilable universes that pervade throughout the artist's work. All this dimensions make the exhibition interesting to public of all ages, becoming a friendly place to take your kids to.

Combine a visit to the exhibition with a stroll along the river or a visit to another of the many attractions in Belém, and, if you're a foodie, don't forget to finish with a Pastel de Belém. I didn't!

A exposição está instalada no Museu de Arte Popular, em Belém e, além das 200 obras expostas, inclui experiências científicas, áreas lúdicas, recursos educativos e experiências interactivas que ajudam os visitantes a compreender as perspectivas impossíveis e os universos irreconciliáveis que permeiam todo o trabalho do artista. Todas essas dimensões tornam a exposição interessante para o público de todas as idades, tornando-se um local estimulante para levar seus filhos.

Combine a visita com uma caminhada ao longo do rio ou com uma visita a outra atracção nesta parte da cidade. Belém está cheio de museus e locais interessantíssimos para conhecer. E, é claro, se gostar de algo doce, não pode perder a oportunidade de comer um Pastel de Belém. Eu não dispensei!

Escher Lisboa (until September 2018)
Museu de Arte Popular
Avenida de Brasília
Lisboa

Opening Times
Every day 10:00 am - 8:00 pm

Tickets (include Audioguide)
Adults: 11€ | Children (5 - 10): 4€, (11 - 18): 9€ | Students and Senior Citizens: 9€

Almada Negreiros Lisbon Itinerary | Igreja de Fátima

The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fatima (usually known as Igreja de Fátima) is located in Avenidas Novas district in Lisbon, the modernist neighborhood of the city developed in the first half of the 20th century. This is also one of my favorite churches in the city (along with Lisbon Cathedral) and one that is particularly dear to me.

The church was commissioned in 1933 to the architect Porfírio Pardal Monteiro and is a remarkable work of Portuguese modernism, with the particularity of being the first Catholic temple to be built in Lisbon after the implantation of the Republic (1910).

The building's exterior, where straight lines and pure forms prevail is composed by a large volume, forming the main nave, covered with a flat roof terrace, which articulates with the lower volumes of the two side aisles, and also with the baptistery and the unique and asymmetrical tower on the façade. The traces of art deco are patented in the asymmetry and fragmentation of volumes and in the way they are ornamented.

Like many other works of Pardal Monteiro, the building had the artistic collaboration of Almada Negreiros (stained glass) and of other Portuguese sculptors and artists. The works of Almada Negreiros in the Baptistery are particularly impressive, and the stained glass behind the alter is absolutely breathtaking. Although this church is a little off the beaten path, its beauty and artistic value totally recommend its visit.

Almada Negreiros's works in this church include the stained glass of the "Holy Trinity" in the Choir,  the stained glass, mosaics and doors of the Baptistery, the stained glass "Calvary" and "Our Lady of Mercy" in the Chapel of Our Lady of Mercy, the stained glass "Our Lady of Carmo" and "Queen of Christians" in the Chapel of Our Lady of Carmo, and the stained glass and Eucharistic symbols of the canopy of the Apse. In the Apse, the four frescoes of the "Evangelists", were also painted by Almada Negreiros.



Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário de Fátima
Av. de Berna 26,
1050-053 Lisboa

Almada Negreiros Lisbon Itinerary | Rocha's Cruise Terminal

In the first half of the 20th century the large passengers ships were still the preferred way to travel between the continents and even between some European countries. Lisbon needed bigger and more modern ship terminals and the decision is taken to built three large maritime terminals in the right margin of river Tagus. The first at Alcântara, the second at Rocha do Conde de Óbidos and a firth one, whose construction was cancelled, at Cais do Sodré.

The two ship terminals, designed by the Portuguese architect Porfirio Pardal Monteiro constitute good examples of modernist architecture and enclosed inside some of what have already been called Alameda Negreiro's master pieces. Both terminals have in their visitors rooms the most magnificent sets of murals, depicting scenes of Portuguese history, tradition and everyday life, created by de imagination and hand of Almada Negreiros.

On a previous post I have presented you the works of Almada Negreiros at Alcântara Cruise Terminal. Continuing the relationship with the architect Pardal Monteiro, Almada Negreiros begins in 1946 the two great frescoed painted triptychs of the  Rocha de Conde Óbidos Cruise Terminal, which will only be concluded in 1948.

The Tagus river is a constant presence on both triptychs. On the first mural, the master unfolds the life  of Lisbon's inhabitants occupied with their activities on the riverside. There is some lyricism on this calm, quiet life scenes filled up with little stories, cleverly unified by the river.

In the second triptych, the three panels recompose a panoramic view of a boat. Although formally the boat is assumed to be the dominant subject, the motive it addresses is that of emigration. The theme of the departure of some, from the same quay where the panels are located, and of the "saudade" of the others, that stay is a recurrent subject that has strongly marked Portuguese history.

Unlike the paintings of Gare Marítima de Alcântara, the different figures are here cut out by a strong black line, which gives the composition a feature that reminds us of Cubism, with design assuming a great protagonism.

On my visit to Rocha's Cruise Terminal I was guest to Fundação Caloust Gulbenkian and had the privilege to be guided by the curator of Almada Negreiros exhibition - A Way of Being Modern. You can also visited the works of Almada Negreiros, making an appointment beforehand (at least 2 working days). The visits are held from Monday to Friday, starting at 10:30 a.m. or 2:30 p.m., free of charges. The visits are preferably scheduled for groups (minimum 10 people) and individual requests can be joined to other groups already scheduled. For more information you must contact:

Divisão de Desenvolvimento e Relações Institucionais do Porto de Lisboa
Phone: +351 21 361 10 25
Mloureiro@portodelisboa.pt

Almada Negreiros Lisbon Itinerary | Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon

Not only there is no museum in Portugal that gathers all the works of Almada Negreiros (1893-1970), as many of his pieces are in private hands, but also part of his work is scattered trough Lisbon.  The artist has frequently collaborated in wider architectonic projects like the Cruise Terminal Buildings of Alcântara and Rocha do Conde de Óbidos, the Church of Our Lady of Fátima, the Lisbon's University Campus, among others, contributing for a real, and very rich, artistic itinerary in the city that I will bring to you on a series of articles. The Hotel Ritz (currently Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon) is one of the stops on our Almada Negreiros Lisbon Itinerary.

In 1959, the architect Porfirio Pardal Monteiro is commissioned with the project for a 5 star hotel in the city that will bring Lisbon to the highest international standards of hospitality. Once again, Pardal Monteiro invites his friend Almada Negreiros to make the drawings for three tapestries, and an engraved marble wall, which you can find on the ground floor of the hotel.

Almada Negreiros, inspired by Greek mythology draws a set of 3 tapestries. In the first you can see the encounter of a couple of centaurs. The male, confident and exhibitionist and the female looking over the shoulder with coquetry.

In front of the first tapestry you can find the second one where passion succeeds seduction in brighter and warmer colors, and with a clear sense of movement in the traits of the artist. There, the two centaurs, lying down and intertwined, hold each other heads with the promise of a kiss.

On the opposite side of Almada Negreiros Lounge, you can find the third and last tapestry, where a lonely centaur looks down in a composition resembling the shape of the Centaurus constellation. This notable work of Almada Negreiros was weaved with the traditional technic and mastery of Portalegre tapestries and conveys all the energy of modernist art and of his passion for geometry.

I love tapestries in general and this ones from Almada Negreiros fascinate me for years, but my favorite work of the master at the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon is the mural Harvest. Carved in a black marble wall and column, with the carvings accentuated with gold leaf, its a stunning vision as we walk the corridor that leads to it.

Under the shadow of a large tree, a harvester rests, as a man looks at her, hidden behind another tree (carved on the column). The reflection of light from both the dark marble and the golden decorations creates a dazzling effect that is absolutely captivating.

These are outstanding works of art, but you must know that are not the only ones you can find at the Ritz. The hotel presents an exceptional collection of contemporary Portuguese art, including dozens of works from some of Portugal's most renowned artists. Alongside with Almada Negreiros you can find works of Pedro Leitão, Estrela Faria and Querubim Lapa, and I promise to bring you more on this impressive collection on a future article.

The hotel's art collection is so valuable and the investment on this area is so serious that the Ritz has its own App on it. You can download it free on iTunes and check all there is to see at this amazing hotel.

There are all the reasons in the world to visit this works of art as a Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon guest, but if you live in Lisbon or have another arrangements for your stay in the city, you can still have the opportunity to enjoy this great works of art. As a single visitor you can enter the hotel a have a look around (large groups are not allowed) or you can check Almada Negreiros works while having a tea at the Hotel's Lounge. There are several afternoon tea menus available but for the occasion I would suggest the Almada Negreiros option, inspired in the work of the master.

I'll be writing a review on the Almada Negreiros afternoon tea at the Ritz in the next few weeks, but if you take my suggestion for a top "culture addict meets foodie" program at Lisbon, visit the Almada Negreiros exhibition at Fundação Caloust Gulbenkian, enjoy the city, walking to the hotel (just a few minutes away) and have a delicious afternoon tea. Sounds great, doesn't it?